Apr 25, 2006

PLITVICKA JEZERA, Croatia – "Veliki Slap," the sign reads: Big Waterfall.

The jokes are inevitable, especially after lunch in Bihac, Bosnia...

The slap is nice, as slaps go. The 70-meter cascade lies inside the Plitvicka Jezera National Park, a chain of 16 peacock-colored lakes.

Though occupied by Serb forces from 1991-1995, the park's landscape remains fairly unspoilt. Boardwalks snake across the water, teeming with trout. Heron skim among the travertine cliffs. We hike a few miles, then catch the last pontoon boat down the dusky lake.

Pure magic. As it should be. I make some quick calculations: income lost by rejecting the guidebook gig + savings about to be spent.

We've just enjoyed a $4,000 day in the Balkans.


  1. Anonymous1:05 PM

    Its just money...you'll make more.

  2. As my friend Karen, an "ethnic Catholic," would say: from your lips to God's ears...

  3. Anonymous12:57 AM

    If you stay with travel writing, you won't make more. You will lose more. But that's the whole point of being a travel writer.


    (represented by the German spy in England)

  4. But, wait, won't I get paid fabulously to see the world, like the AWAI travel writing course promises?


  5. Anonymous9:33 AM

    Whenever I am at the losing end of travel writing (more often than not), my cousin Tobi always comes up trumps with the ultimate solution:
    "Honey, at the end of the day there is always prostitution..."

    ...she says, lapdancing for National Geographic without much result.....

    Love, S! (hairdressing for her country)

  6. A mullet, surely, will improve revenue on both fronts, no?

    Xoxoxo, Ax.


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