PLITVICKA JEZERA, Croatia "Veliki Slap," the sign reads: Big Waterfall.
The jokes are inevitable, especially after lunch in Bihac, Bosnia...
The slap is nice, as slaps go. The 70-meter cascade lies inside the Plitvicka Jezera National Park, a chain of 16 peacock-colored lakes.
Though occupied by Serb forces from 1991-1995, the park's landscape remains fairly unspoilt. Boardwalks snake across the water, teeming with trout. Heron skim among the travertine cliffs. We hike a few miles, then catch the last pontoon boat down the dusky lake.
Pure magic. As it should be. I make some quick calculations: income lost by rejecting the guidebook gig + savings about to be spent.
We've just enjoyed a $4,000 day in the Balkans.